Day 046: Charlestown to Portloe
Distance: 19.21 miles
Ascent: 6701 feet
Accommodation: Wild camp Near portloe
Well the day started with what could have been the first major cock up of the walk. When I arrived at the studio last night I took my boots of before entering so as not to mark any of the bright white surfaces inside. The only issue being I forgot to bring them inside and left them outside all night. It was so lucky it did not rain last night, as completely soaked boots would have been miserable and may have delayed todays walk. As it turned out it had been dry, so the boots got a lovely airing outside overnight.
I am not sure if it was because I was so comfy, or my head wasn’t in the walk first thing, but I did not set off as early as normal finally getting out around 8.30. I left the extremely picturesque Charlestown harbour/docks, bathed in sunshine and then there were several very steep climbs right from the start, heading around Black Head and onto Pentewan. As I was walking along the cliff I could see several fishing boats, surrounded by many buoys though I was not sure what they were catching.
Pentewan was a slightly strange place, with a long stretch of sand, and one massive campsite that tried to lay claim to the ‘Private’ beach. Though the sandy beach was lovely, I did not have a great opinion of this little village. The path rose up the cliffs again and it was not long till I was in Mevagissey.
Mevagissey was much nicer, with lots of lovely stone cottages and a little fishing fleet in the harbour. This was much more developed than many of the other towns/villages I had passed in these parts, with actual branded clothes shops, and cafes that wouldn’t feel out of place in Shoreditch. It does unfortunately feel like Mevagissey could lose it’s charm if too many upmarket shops and restaurants arrive.
The walk from Mevagissey to Gorran Haven was absolutely stunning, gently undulating around the cliffs passing a secluded property at Chapel Point, where there was also a lovely little beach, where I saw my second seal of the walk. He just gently bobbed around on the surface as if he had no cares in the world.
At Gorran Haven there was a lovely little village shop/bakery, where I was able to get a massive pasty, drink, crisps, great home baked cake and afternoon snack and still only about £5. This fuelled me right up and I continued on the walk around Dodman Point, which contains the remains of an Iron Age promontory fort.
The sun was amazingly still shining and I carried on along the path, passing Caerhays Castle which appears to be in absolutely fantastic condition. There were a couple of very steep climbs not long before I finally reached Portloe. I climbed up the coast path the other side of Portloe and pitched my tent in the flattest, most sheltered spot I could find. Not an ideal spot but perfectly good for the night.
So a sunny successful day.