Day 112: Penrhyn to Bull Bay

Distance: 20.23 miles

Ascent: 4372 feet

Weather: Overcast But Dry Morning, Windy & Wet Afternoon

Accommodation: Rhianfa B&B (Kindly Complimentary)


I woke up very early around 5:15, it may have had something to do with the fact that I had pitched behind the shower block to shelter from the wind and at some point in the night the block lights must have automatically switched on making it quite bright in the tent. But in a way it was quite useful as I packed up my bag and then went into the laundry room where it was warm and light to type up yesterdays diary. Before then deciding that due to the rain forecast for this afternoon and night, and as I had been in a tent for the last 5 nights (in slightly damp conditions)  I would email a couple of places to try and get a reduced room for the night in Bull Bay.

After all this I did not set of that early leaving about 8am, and half way along the first beach barely 10 minutes after leaving I checked my email and unbelievably both places I had emailed had already emailed back and not only offered a reduced price but in fact a free room for the night (Rhianfa B&B & Trecastell Hotel) I was very grateful, and this set me of in a great mood.

The first part followed the gently rolling cliffs/beaches on paths, track and a little bit of roads. There was a very impressive old decaying hull, strangely up on the grassy crag above Porth y Ffynnon. But it was the birdlife that was pretty spectacular, with a hunting peregrine slowly swooping along the exposed low tide rocks where there were lots of oyster catchers, shelducks and various gulls that all seemed to be catching the attention of the peregrine. But suddenly it all turned on its heads as the gulls decided to fight back one by one swooping the peregrine until it decided to retreat.

The path dropped down to an attractive pebble beach nestled infront of a large lagoon (Llyn y Fldlyn), where there were a couple of geese which had presumably just arrived from there long commute. The path climbed up onto Penbrynyreglwys, where there were a couple of old mine chimneys and some odd giant sort of massive white stone triangles, these 2 triangles seemed to line up possibly with another one on an island a short distance of the coast which may be a navigation aid for ships.

The path slowly descends down to Cemyln Bay, where there is a large curved pebble beach with a lovely bird reserve behind, and the path soon climbs out of the other side and the imposing Wylfa Power Station comes into view. I strangely liked its architectural appeal, essentially lots of boxes of different sizes and colours, harsh and bold against the beautiful scenery.  The path took quite a weird route around the power station, and the various other industrial units (in fact a bit confusing as the official route was slightly diverted due to works.)

Just after this part I came across a very strange clearing in a wood with a whole new barn not for humans or cattle but purely for bats, and there were literally hundreds of bat boxes attached to the trees around the area. From here I soon reached Cemaes, a charming little town and harbour where I had lunch. One strange feature of the town was a tidal bell amongst the rocks on the beach that rings when the high tide knocks the chime.

Not long after leaving Cemaes the weather took a massive turn for the worst, the wind increased to a very strong speed and the rain started. In fact on the steep climb out of Porth Llanlleiana the wind was funnelling so much that the climb was very hard and I was struggling to stay on my feet, when I reached the top fortunately the path slightly dropped down the other side and out of the wind a bit.

At Porth Wen there were the very impressive ruins of an old brickworks which would have been fun to explore if it wasn’t for the rain. So I just carried on and soon reached Bull Bay where I climbed the hill to Rhianfa B&B. My kind host greeted me, and I was very happy to have a lovely bed for the night and she also offered me breakfast in the morning as well. I fell asleep very early.

So a successful day, and I am very grateful and happy to be in a comfortable room tonight.

charles compton